How To Make Wood Countertops Kitchen – Learn how to make DIY kitchen countertops out of plywood and laminate for under $300! This is the second video in the DIY kitchen renovation series!
If you missed last week’s video, I finished installing my new kitchen cabinets and the next step in the kitchen remodel was to make and install some countertops. in.
How To Make Wood Countertops Kitchen
While looking for design inspiration while planning this kitchen project, I kept coming across countertops made of plywood with a laminate on top. I’ve noticed a lot of people showing off those plywood edges, which is a look you know I love if you follow my channel.
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I decided to try making tables in this style, and the first step was to get sheets of ¾” plywood from my local Lowe’s. I cut the sheets at the store on a panel saw to 25 ½” wide which makes them very good. easy to handle and once I got them home I could lay out the last length of the pieces.
To sew the seam between the two pieces of baseboard I’m making, I thought I could butt the two pieces where our front apron goes under , because most of that piece will be cut and covered anyway. .
After determining the length of this first section, I cut a piece of plywood to length on my board, but a circular saw and straight edge will work here as well. I also made sure to cut the factory edge on both ends of the piece to make sure my edge was as clean as possible.
In one of the sections, I needed to separate the area where the baseboard met the wall oven cabinet frame. To do this I marked the area, I cut out most of the material with my knife and then I cleaned it with a rag.
Reclaimed Wood Countertops
The last piece to be cut was to fill in the space between the two longer strips, and I cut this piece to length again using the saw.
Once this piece was cut I could check all the top pieces and with the fit confirmed I could move on to making the edges of the pieces.
What I mean by making the edges is that instead of gluing two full pieces of plywood together for the whole table, I decided to just put strips around the edges of the pieces height, as well as where the boards will be supported. lower cabinets.
In plywood, but it also made the boards very light and easy to assemble. It also allowed me to make better use of the 4×8 sheets of plywood I was using because those 23 inch wide cuts wouldn’t have worked for these boards.
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Before adding the strips, I first marked where the ceiling met the lower cabinets. Since the strips I used were 3 inches wide, I could partially mark those places on the bottom of my pieces and work from those marks.
Speaking of strips, next time I might cut some of that 23″ in a 3″ stack on the table. I was able to do this on a panel saw at Lowe’s and it would be a great option if you don’t have a table saw. You don’t need a table saw to make tables like this, as you can use a panel saw at your local hardware store, as well as a circular saw for the final cuts at home.
After cutting some of the strips, I could start cutting the strips to length, starting with the one miter cut I needed to make on the outside corner of the right edge of my boards.
By cutting the miter here, I could make it look like these counters were two layers thick, but if I’d just used a miter joint here, I’d have seams ugly to have
Diy Butcherblock Kitchen Countertops
After cutting the two pieces of granite to length, I attached them to the side of the table using wood glue and a bunch of 1 inch nails. Brad nails are a good choice here because they have a lot of retention and you don’t have to use a ton of clamps to get tight seams, but you can also use scissors if you don’t have a brad nailer.
That being said, if you have some clamps, you might as well use them, as they really help tighten those seams.
Then, I continued to fill the edges and the middle of the table and cut the pieces to length on the miter saw. These parts are not visible on the final board, so I didn’t worry about getting them absolutely perfect. I made sure to match the edges as best as I could, and added filler strips where I made those marks earlier, where the baseboard is supported from the cabinets below.
With that, the first part of the table is assembled so I can move on to the L-shaped corner section. This section required me to join the top two pieces of the table, so I put stripes on the lower side of the joint both perpendicular and parallel to the upper edges.
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After drying the pieces, I assembled the table in the same way as before, but unfortunately I ran out of time to do so. Here’s how the department looked after convention. As you can see, I used several screws here, especially on the seam between the two top pieces. This was partly to add strength, but the screws also carried more weight than the nail brads and pulled the pieces into the same plane.
With that, the two main board pieces are assembled, so before I add the laminate, I wanted to go ahead and do some prep on the plywood pieces. I started by filling the small gap between the two pieces that were supposed to be joined together for the L shaped piece, and I used wood filler to fill that area.
I let it dry a bit and then sanded all the edges with 80 grit sandpaper to start smoothing things out.
After an initial pass with the sander on the edges, I went back and applied wood filler to all the visible edges and sanded it down nice and thick. I wanted these edges to be smooth to the touch and also any open areas to be places where water could work its way in later.
Diy Reclaimed Wood Countertop
After applying the wood filler, I went back and sanded the edges down to 180 grit, which left them very smooth and with a noticeable gap.
While I had the board upside down, I went ahead and added a bevel to the bottom edge using a trim router. Not only will this help the edges from chipping, but it will make the boards look better in the hands.
Finally, I sanded the top with 120 grit to make things very smooth and then I could work on the laminate.
I ordered two sheets of laminate from the Lowe’s website for this project, even though I could have covered these boards with one sheet, and I ordered two sheets because it’s so hard to tell which is which what the color or pattern looks like from one page. ” square pattern.
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Both pages were black, one with a matte finish and the other with fine text. I decided I preferred clothes, so I went ahead with this page.
Unfortunately, I didn’t pay attention to the direction of the board when I laid out the black laminate sheet, and you’ll see that hit me after a while.
Anyway, to cut the laminate to size, I taped the sheet across the board about 2 inches wide on the back edges and then used a miter saw on my router to trim the sheet to cut to size. .
I also made sure to support the cut in this L-shaped section, as I had problems in the past with the laminate tearing at corners like this. Overall it worked well, but again I cut the laminate with the table top upside down, not knowing that this section is L-shaped so it wouldn’t fit straight on the table.
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After a moment of panic, I realized I could switch gears and hide the seam under the stove, not the sink. It will still be a little more visible on the final counter, but I figured if I could get the pieces nice and straight, the seam would be tight enough.
For this I used a template on my decorative router and placed two adjacent pieces between two pieces of plywood and
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